Monthly Archives: September 2018

How Do You Estimate the Size of a Kodiak Bear?

When our summer guests see a bear, they immediately want to know its size. They ask, “How much does it weigh?” or, “Is it a big bear or a small bear?” If you see a Kodiak bear ten feet in front of you on a trail, it looks huge, but the same bear walking along the beach a mile away appears small. Guides who have spent years watching bears can easily tell you whether a bear is big, small, or medium-sized, but it’s not easy even for an experienced guide to judge the exact size of a bear from a distance. In this week’s post, I will discuss the indicators a guide uses to judge the relative size of a bear, but first, let me share some facts about the weight of Kodiak bears at different ages as they grow.

Kodiak bears gain weight and add fat in the summer when food is abundant, and then they burn off this fat during hibernation, so their weights vary from fall to spring. Yearling cubs weigh approximately 135 lbs (61.36 kg). When they are two-and one-half-years old, males begin to outgrow the females, and weights vary greatly. Females reach their full adult size at approximately five years when they weigh between 350 and 500 lbs. (159.09 – 227.27 kg). Males continue to grow, gaining about 100 lbs. (45.45 kg) per year until they are eight to ten years old and weigh 500 to 1000 lbs. (227.27 – 454.54 kg). In the wild, an 800 lb. ( 362.87 kg) female would be a huge sow, and a 1500 lb. ( 680.39 kg) male is a maximum-sized Kodiak bear. The largest Kodiak bear on record lived in the Cheyenne Mountain Zoo and weighed 1670 lbs. (757 kg.).

When you see a bear on a salmon stream or watch him through binoculars, you might not be able to determine how big he is, but you should be able to tell whether he or she is relatively large or small.

Shape:

Look at the bear’s overall shape. Does the bear appear square or rectangular? Young, small bears look square from a distance, while larger Kodiak bears have a rectangular shape. A larger, older boar also appears bulky through the rump and midsection.

Legs:

Are the bear’s legs long or short, and thin or heavy?

Big males have long legs. The front legs on a large male appear heavy and do not taper at the ankles. A young male brown bear also has long legs, but they look lanky, not thick and heavy. A Female, even an old female, has shorter legs, making her body appear closer to the ground. A female’s front legs taper at the ankles.

Head Neck and Shoulders:

Note the size of the ears in relation to the rest of the head. The ears on a large male or female bear appear small compared to the rest of the head, and on a large male, the ears appear wide-set. The ears on a young, small bear look large in comparison to the rest of the head and seem closer together. Now, look at the shape of the head. A large boar has a wide, square face with a thick, heavy muzzle. A sow has a small, narrow head with a tapered muzzle, and a young bear has a long, triangular head.

The massive muscles on the head of a large boar create a furrow down the middle of the forehead, and its muscular shoulders are wider than its head. A female has narrow shoulders the same width as her head, and a young bear has a long, relatively thin neck.

Claws:

Old, big bears of either sex often have distinctive white claws, but a male can be big without being old, so a big boar might have dark claws, and occasionally, a younger, smaller bear has white claws.

Conclusion:

If you’ve never seen a Kodiak bear in the wild, how can you tell if it has small ears, broad shoulders, or tapered ankles? If you see several bears at once, you can study and note the physical differences between big bears and smaller, younger bears, but if you see a single bear walking the beach, these general clues to size might not help you. My husband has been a bear guide for most of his life, and he says the best clues are:

1. The shape: is the bear rectangular (large) or square (small)?
2. Does the bear appear bulky and muscular (large) or does it have long, lanky limbs (small)?
3. Finally, and this point is often overlooked, how does the bear move? Watch the bear awhile. Does he walk or run in jerky movements (small), or are his movements slow and deliberate (large)?

Examine the photos in this post. Can you tell which bears are large and which are small?

Next week, I’ll share some clues on how to differentiate between male and female Kodiak bears. It’s not as easy as you might think, and unlike in the cartoons, females don’t wear bows in their hair.

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Robin Barefield is the author of three Alaska wilderness mystery novels, Big Game, Murder Over Kodiak, and The Fisherman’s Daughter. To download a free copy of one of her novels, watch her webinar about how she became an author and why she writes Alaska wilderness mysteries. If you like audiobooks, check out her audiobook version of Murder Over Kodiak. Also, sign up below to subscribe to her free, monthly newsletter on true murder and mystery in Alaska.

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Look Around You

Look at the cloud-draped mountains, the small buck prancing through our backyard, or the eagle standing watch in the tree. Did you see the brightly colored puffin, or the sea otter lounging on her back, her baby nestled on her stomach? Did you notice the seals hauled out on the beach, two of them bloody from fighting, or did you stay up late one night to watch a beautiful Alaska sunset?

As many of you know, my husband and I own a small wilderness lodge on Kodiak Island, Alaska. In the summer, we take guests wildlife viewing and sportfishing, with an emphasis on watching Kodiak bears in their natural habitat. One thing I have noticed over the years is the guests who have the best time at our lodge are those who see everything. They are the ones who show me their photos at the end of the day and are embarrassed by all the images of rock formations they snapped. They are also the ones who admit they didn’t take any pictures of the whales because they just wanted to look, listen, smell, and feel the experience instead of watching it all through their camera’s viewfinder.

The guest who sheds a few tears when she talks about a bear splashing in the water twenty feet from her and the guest who was thrilled by watching through binoculars from a distance as a sow interacted with her three cubs are the guests we will see again. They will return in a year or two or ten because they won’t be able to get the sights, the sounds, or the smells of this beautiful place out of their heads.

Nearly 75% of our guests this summer were returnees, and many of them have been to our lodge multiple times. They’ve been here when the bear viewing was spectacular, and when bears were scarce. They’ve been here during great fishing years and years when the fish were slow to bite, and some years they’ve seen whales, while other years they haven’t. They’ve braved storms and basked in the sun. They’ve seen it all, but they keep returning because they have never focused on just one thing and lost sight of the big picture.

One guest this summer who has been here multiple times told me she and her husband have never had a rainy day here. I’m sure she must be either extremely lucky or mistaken, but I love that she and her husband only remember the sunshine!

No matter where you travel or what adventure you seek, if you narrow your focus too much, you will miss what is right in front of you. Instead, look around, and you might be surprised by what you see. The things that please you most and makes you fall in love with a destination could be something entirely different from what you were expecting.

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Robin Barefield is the author of three Alaska wilderness mystery novels, Big Game, Murder Over Kodiak, and The Fisherman’s Daughter. To download a free copy of one of her novels, watch her webinar about how she became an author and why she writes Alaska wilderness mysteries. If you like audiobooks, check out her audiobook version of Murder Over Kodiak. Also, sign up below to subscribe to her free, monthly newsletter on true murder and mystery in Alaska.

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T. Martin O’Neil – from Naval Intelligence Officer to Popular Author

The following is a guest post by my friend and fellow author T. Martin O’Neil and his journey from a  Naval Intelligence Officer to a popular author. I know you will enjoy his story as much as I did. Take it away Marty!

Thoughts About the Origin of My Background and Naval Career

by T. Martin O’Neil

It was a tense moment. Just plain and simple. Sweat glistened off my forehead forming bigger and bigger blobs until, unabated, it formed a torrent of rivulets streaking my camouflage skin paint. Sweat stung my red-rimmed eyes as I lay pressed into the surrounding clumps of grass, leaves, debris and tropical plant-life. There were no sounds of life. No sounds of monkeys, birds or even insects.

The two men I watched were not more than 30-meters away. I knew they were talking, albeit in low voices, but the sound of their words seemed to die as the words left their lips. The oppressive humidity and heat made every effort to become part of my surroundings futile. If just a bird had flown by, the movement of air from its wings would have spelled welcome relief. Instead, nothing.

One man lit a Chinese cigarette. The acrid, bitter smoke enveloped his head like an ethereal cloud. Even he could not stand the fumes and moved out of the way of the smoke-screen. His companion laughed lightly and teased his buddy. Both men side-stepped away from the brownish cloud.

A small python moved silently and stealthily away from the clearing the men stood in. Its small tongue flicking quickly from the end of its snout smelling, no doubt, its potential dinner.

My thoughts flashed randomly as to how I came to be in this place. Initially I wanted to be in Naval Aviation. I’d gone to Pensacola, Florida, to attend flight school. It was my dream even as a child to fly as my father had flown. He’d flown during World War II for the Navy, and I really wanted to do the same now.

While at flight school, I’d done quite well. Unfortunately my eyesight limited my choice to being a Naval Flight Officer but I still could fly “back seat” in the F-4 Phantom II. School progressed and I was fortunate enough to be top man in my class. This meant that I could have my first choice of any available assignments. I wanted to stay flying.

The time frame I speak of was in 1970, after the 2nd Tet Offensive in Vietnam and the whole war effort was being drawn down in a new tactic called Vietnamization. We were turning the war over to the benefactors of our support, the South Vietnamese.

It seemed the Communist North Vietnamese knew they could not defeat the far superior U.S./South Vietnamese forces militarily, so they resorted to the tactics that had worked so well with the French. Namely, they took the fight to the homelands using the dupes in the news media and liberal educational fields to subvert the military. After all, it worked before and appeared to working this time. Politicians, citizens and even the military were being badgered by the communists and were capitulating.

Vietnamization meant that the military was winding down its activities in the U.S. “Pipelines” were filled with men and women waiting to serve, but with no places to go. In its usual myopic way, the military just folded up its tent and walked away from thousands of students it had trained and paid for like so much trash left on the curb on garbage pick-up day. This meant in my case that I had two choices, go home or pick another field that still was available.

The draft had not gone away. My draft board was in Chicago. Because my draft number had already been called, if I went home, in spite of my education, degree and the flight training I’d been given, I could feasibly be made into so much cannon fodder.

Of the fields that remained open, however, Intelligence was the closest to my education. Less than two weeks later I found myself off to Denver, Colorado, to attend the Armed Forces Air Intelligence School at Lowry AFB.

Again, while there, I was fortunate enough to finish top of my class and had my choice of assignments. I chose to work not with the aviation commands, but with the Amphibious Forces. This gave me a chance to immediately have my own shop. Most junior naval officers worked in shops as trainees. In my situation, I was able to act as the shop director. This paid huge dividends later in my career. Instead of reacting to orders, I was able to see situations and direct solutions to those issues. I learned with OJT and not with browbeating and hazing-like experiences so common to other situations.

While assigned to the Amphibious Forces, I was introduced to flag officers that ultimately changed my life. I became acquainted with the head of all inshore activities in South Vietnam, termed the brown-water Navy. We hit it off and the door opened to work with Naval Special Warfare teams in Southeast Asia. My first experience was with SEAL Team One.

SEAL Team One was charged with the interdiction of weapons and supplies to South Vietnam from North Vietnam. The only catch phrase that seemed to change our charge was “and other duties as assigned.” It is these other duties I write about in my books.

Hollywood casts a cloud of farce on everything related to SEALS. If it is associated with SEALS, it means death, destruction and wanton killing. This is not the truth and in most cases reflects very little of the truth. SEALS are trained to accomplish their assignments and leave no one behind. Sometimes, it does mean killing enemies, but Hollywood wants viewers to see these men in only one way; cold killers. My books reflect the humanitarian efforts they performed.

As an Intelligence Officer, my duties centered on the planning and execution assistance of these men. Because of my relationship with the operators, I received opportunities to work reconnaissance operations with them. The stories in my books reflect my fieldwork, many of which were counter-narcotics and counter-human smuggling. The counter-piracy stories were added because our assignments were never dull or routine. Some of the events were adjusted to fit the time-frame of my books but all are based on fact; so much so, that my books have to be vetted by members of the Office of Naval Intelligence to ensure I don’t inadvertently use information that has not been declassified.

My books reflect the beginning of a 35-year career that I truly enjoyed. I know I made a difference. I have the satisfaction of knowing that my children can now read about my contributions. My experiences are more than war stories told around a campfire or plaques on a wall. You and my family can know I made a difference as well.

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I thank you for your service, Marty, and I am happy we all can read about the difference you made and gain a more realistic view of SEALS and their missions. Please follow the following links to read more about and purchase Marty’s books on Amazon: Into The Fire and The Worth of Souls. Marty’s books are also available on Author Masterminds.

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Robin Barefield is the author of three Alaska wilderness mystery novels, Big Game, Murder Over Kodiak, and The Fisherman’s Daughter

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Step Out of Your World and Escape

Escaping from your life is the only true way to relax, but escape is not easy in the 21st century. You might be lounging on a beach in Aruba, but I bet your cell phone is keeping your rum punch company on the table next to your chair, and you remind yourself you need to return to your room an hour before dinner to put the finishing touches on the report you’ve promised your boss. You are enjoying a fun vacation, but you have not escaped.

As many of you know, my husband and I own a small bear-viewing, sportfishing, and hunting lodge on Kodiak Island in Alaska. Our lodge is located seventy air miles from the town of Kodiak in the heart of the Kodiak National Wildlife Refuge. No roads cross the island, so the only way to reach us is by floatplane or an eight-hour boat ride through rough seas. We don’t have cell phone service, and although we do have internet, it is satellite internet with a strict and stingy data limit.

We tell our guests they can send and receive e-mails but nothing else, and please, no photos or videos. Turn off the apps and disable location services while you are at our lodge.

Our guests look at us with wide eyes. How could we ask them to disconnect from their lives? How will they survive if they can’t watch the news on their phones, follow the twists and turns of the stock market, or catch the latest baseball scores? More importantly, how many YouTube cat videos will they miss during a five-day stay with us?

We often catch a guest cheating at the beginning of her stay when she thinks we won’t notice her texting while she holds her phone under the edge of the dining room table. Gradually, though, we see change. The iPhone, held in a death grip when a guest climbed from the floatplane, now only makes appearances after we’ve returned from our daily adventure. Computer screens that were earlier filled with business documents or e-mails are now occupied by wildlife photos from the day’s safari.

The group of six strangers who on the first evening they arrived, barely looked up from their devices to converse, now linger over the dinner table discussing the day’s excitement and laughing about the huge Kodiak bear they watched chase a salmon through a small stream.

“I thought he was running straight for Sid,” Cathy from Indianapolis says.

“Right,” Sid from Melbourne replies. “I nearly needed to change my trousers.”

The laughter grows to a roar, and then slowly, the conversation drifts to families and other far-away vacations. No one has glanced at a cellphone in hours.

Guests often say their stay with us was the best vacation of their lives. I would like to believe we are completely responsible for their excellent holiday, but I know it’s not the truth. They had fun and relaxed because they escaped their lives for a few days.

On day one, our guests ask if we’ve heard the news of the day. What’s happening in the world? By day four, they ask what time the tide will be high and what river we plan to hike the following day. They excitedly tell us about the young buck that walked up to the steps of their cabin or the eagle they watched pluck a salmon from the cove in front of our lodge. After only a few days, our guests have unplugged and are beginning to follow the rhythms of our world.

I watch with sadness as our guests wait for the floatplane to take them back to Kodiak and their lives. The chatter dies, and the phones emerge from their hiding places.

I love my job as a guide and naturalist, and I enjoy sharing my world in the Alaska wilderness with others, but I feel our trips are only successful when I see our guests relax. I know if a guest can put down his phone and escape his world for a few days, he will have the best vacation of his life. It’s not about us; it’s about the escape.

The plane lands, and our departing guests wait for the new flock to disembark before they can load their gear onto the plane. As they pass each other on the dock and exchange pleasantries, one of the departing guests looks at the new arrivals and smirks. “You can put away those phones,” he says. “You won’t need them here.”

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Robin Barefield is the author of three Alaska wilderness mystery novels, Big Game, Murder Over Kodiak, and The Fisherman’s Daughter. To download a free copy of one of her novels, watch her webinar about how she became an author and why she writes Alaska wilderness mysteries. If you like audiobooks, check out her audiobook version of Murder Over Kodiak. Also, sign up below to subscribe to her free, monthly newsletter on true murder and mystery in Alaska.

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Sablefish (Anoplopoma fimbria)

Sablefish (Anoplopoma fimbria) or black cod, as they are commonly called, are not related to Pacific cod but are instead in the family Anoplopomatidae, a family with only one other species, the skilfish (Erilepis zonifer).

A sablefish is slim and long and covered with small scales. It is dark gray or grayish-green on its back and sides and light gray or white on its stomach. It has two widely separated dorsal fins and a tail which is lightly indented in the middle. Sablefish have large mouths with small teeth. They grow quite large and have been known to reach 45 inches (114 cm) in length and 50.5 lbs. (25 kg). An average-sized sablefish weighs 8.1 lbs, (3.7 kg) and is 27 inches (69.1cm) long.

Sablefish range from Alaska and British Columbia south to Baja, California, and west to Kamchatka and Japan, Alaska has the highest concentration of sablefish.

Adult sablefish live on the slopes of the continental shelf and are usually found at depths of 492 to 4921 ft. (150 – 1500 m), but they have been found as deep as 9842 ft. (3000 m). Juveniles live nearshore in much shallower water. Juveniles are pelagic, while adults live near the bottom.

Sablefish spawn in the winter, normally between January and March, but spawning is dependent upon location. They spawn along the continental shelf at depths greater than 3281 ft. (1000 m.) Sablefish become sexually mature between five and seven years, and once they reach sexual maturity, they spawn annually. A female lays 110 eggs per gram of body weight, so an average sized female weighing 3.7 kg will lay approximately 407,000 eggs.

Sablefish larvae drift inshore, and juveniles remain inshore until they reach a size of 12 to 16 inches (30 -40 cm) at the age of two to five years. They then begin to move into deeper water and settle near the bottom, where they continue to grow.

Juvenile sablefish eat zooplankton and small fish, and adults eat fish, squid, octopus, and crustaceans. Survival of juveniles varies greatly from year to year, and biologists believe this variability is linked to zooplankton abundance, which is in turn linked to environmental conditions. Zooplankton thrive during years when ocean temperatures and nutrients produce rich phytoplankton crops for them to eat, and juvenile sablefish then eat the zooplankton, such as krill. When conditions are not favorable, though, zooplankton numbers drop, and fewer sablefish survive.

Juvenile sablefish are prey for many fish species, including Chinook and coho salmon. Sperm whales are a major predator of adults. Sablefish often live as long as 40 years, and the oldest recorded in Alaska was 94-years-old.

Like halibut, sablefish bring a high price per pound to commercial fishermen, and the current value of sablefish in the U.S. fishery is approximately $50 million per year. Most of the commercial catch is exported to Asia, where it is considered a delicacy, but sablefish is gaining popularity in the U.S. Sablefish are primarily harvested by longline or trawling. A small but growing sport fishery for sablefish has developed in Southeast Alaska.
Sablefish abundance has dropped since the 1980s, but with stricter commercial regulations in place, fishery managers consider the population stable. Both state and federal agencies manage sablefish.

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Robin Barefield is the author of three Alaska wilderness mystery novels, Big Game, Murder Over Kodiak, and The Fisherman’s Daughter. To download a free copy of one of her novels, watch her webinar about how she became an author and why she writes Alaska wilderness mysteries. If you like audiobooks, check out her audiobook version of Murder Over Kodiak. Also, sign up below to subscribe to her free, monthly newsletter on true murder and mystery in Alaska.

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Sign Up for my free, monthly Mystery Newsletter about true crime in Alaska.